Our tour around England (and a brief passage through Wales) this year could be summed up in a number of lists. I could sit here and type the list of castles seen, or towns visited. It would fill a lot of space, but they would just be lists. And taken away from the context of the trip we made writing about every little nook and cranny we found ourselves in could take nearly as long as the trip itself.
I could compare it to last year’s trip, taken over a similar period. But that would probably just end in a long rambling rant about the weather this year. It did rain a lot, but on the whole we didn’t let it dampen our spirits too much (ba-dum-tish). Or let it water our spirits down either. (I’ll get my coat.)
I’ve thought about how to try and put this together for a few days since getting back from our trip, and finally decided to go with a mainly figures based look at what we did. But to start it off, a simple statement of fact.
England is a wonderful country, full of beautiful countryside, magnificent buildings and amazing history.
It’s popular and easy to fly off to warmer climes, and there are plenty of countries with all the above as well, with a lot less chance of rain. However I think it is a shame that the country we live in is overlooked as somewhere to visit. Millions of tourists come to this country from overseas to see what we have on offer; we should really do the same.
We clocked up 991 miles this year, perhaps with another detour, or if there had been less rain we might have broken the thousand barrier again. The mileage was broken down over 41 legs over 14 days. Some stints were over 100 miles at a time, others only 2 or 3. Pretty much all of them pointed out two damning observations of road travel.
- The roads are full of imbeciles who can’t drive. Such as those who are allergic to their indicators; or others who think it’s acceptable to turn right from the left of four lanes cutting straight across those in the correct lane to go straight on; and of course those who have had all their mirrors stolen.
- Local councils and the Highways Agency have given up looking after road signs. Nature is claiming them all for itself. There are more road signs covered by foliage than not nowadays. They assume that everyone uses sat-nav and think no one needs signs anymore. Well we do, so get your tree trimmers out and clear all that greenery out of the way. Muppets.
We used 6 hotels, having them more as a base to explore from than overnight stops as we’d done previously. It made life a bit more relaxing, but again showed up a damning observation. Hotels only pay lip service to environmental issues. None of the half flushes work at half capacity. Towels are changed regardless of how neatly you hang them up (or hide them). Plastic cups are replaced daily despite being in perfect working order. And no matter how much you turn the temperature down on the taps, the water is always too bloody hot.
Every major location we went to was linked to a big river. The importance of being able to transport goods was shown to be the catalyst for settlements to be made. We could see 6 major rivers being the reason for what we had gone to see being built. And in the case of the River Severn, it appeared time and time again as it meanders through and dominants the topology of western England.
The Romans understood how important waterways were, and they built roads. Straight roads at that. A lot of miles were done on roads following the routes the Romans had placed there nearly two thousand years before. Especially on the Fosse Way and Watling Street, but also Ermin Street, Akeman Street and Via Devana.
Watling Street also saw two ruins of former Roman settlements. Wall, near Lichfield was a stop off point, and a part of the old town is kept as a visitor site. The other – Wroxeter is a bigger site, and largely unheard of. The part on display there now is a reasonable size, but in the fourth century it was the fourth largest city in England behind London, St. Albans and Cirencester. It was the same size as Pompeii. Whilst the poor unfortunate souls of Pompeii were killed by a volcano eruption, the city was preserved as was for future generations to find. Wroxeter just went into decline as the Saxons broke it up and used a lot of the stone for building elsewhere. The current village is tiny, and if you blinked you would miss the turnings to it. There is a lot of the old site still there under the fields, being deliberately left to prevent damaging it.
There were Roman remains in other places we visited as well, and even pre-Roman remains. And then remains from every period of history since as well. That is one of the great things about England, there is a lot of history, a lot the result of conflict; and with conflict comes damage.
The damage is obvious in most places. We visited 22 English Heritage or local council run historical sites over the two weeks. Of them all, only one stands fully complete as it was built, the curiosity that is Rushton Triangular Lodge. All the others are either complete ruins, or have only parts that are as they were originally built. 5 abbeys and 5 of the 9 cathedrals we visited had fallen foul of the reformation and were partly destroyed or had reduced in size with the dissolution of the monasteries.
Of the 9 castles, only 3 still have any of the original buildings in use now. First the War of the Roses claimed its victims (such as the never completed Kirby Muxloe Castle); or the English Civil War got them, with old Royalist castles being made uninhabitable by having the roofs pulled down (Goodrich, Kenilworth and Ashby de la Zouch all having the obvious signs of where the roofs used to be).
From a distant a lot of the sights look forlorn, unconnected piles of stone. Yet when up close you understand the sheer scale of how large they would have been when fully built. How they managed to build such structures without modern tools and in the timescales they built them in, is a marvel. Especially when you look at how long it takes us to build straightforward blocks of flats or houses nowadays.
Having driven 991 miles wasn’t the full story, there would have been the 70 or so miles we would have walked over the fortnight as well. The exploring of towns, cities and countryside. Of finding that bowing woodwork of the Tudor framed building stuck in between a Georgian townhouse and a seventies concrete monstrosity. Then there will have been the thousands of steps up and down old ruins, to the top of castle keeps and to the depths of cathedral crypts. Many of which have no handrail for your safety (or in my case to help pull myself up, or support myself down). And the narrow and low passages and doorways show how much as a species we have grown in height (and width) in the last 500 years. I would have ended up as a hunchback in medieval times. Even Helen had to duck for some of the doorways. I wonder how the knights managed to negotiate them in full armour.
Between all the activity, and dodging the raindrops (in no less than 19 downpours), there was the need to eat and drink. 11 restaurants, 9 cafes and 21 pubs (plus a night club). From a cup of tea and an ice cream, to a three course meal, or pints and shots, all bases were covered along the way, even to the extent of a missing breakfast one morning.
Then there were the people. Family and friends were met in Leicester, Nottingham and Chester, and it was good to catch up with them. But elsewhere, most of those we came across were friendly, and content in what they were doing. Willing to have a conversation, being happy to help. At any attraction the people working there, the majority of them volunteers, were proud of what we had gone to see. They wanted visitors to come and see the buildings that they loved and cared for. They could tell you pretty much anything about it too. From the teenager welcoming us to Lichfield Cathedral, to the octogenarian tour guide at Worcester Cathedral, and all those in between, they were there to help and answer any questions you had, but at the same time they didn’t intrude if you were happy to do your own thing. It felt good that there were so many people who were enthusiastic about England’s history. It was a good two weeks, and we crammed a lot into it. It was sad that we had to stop, but it is nice to be at home. There are plenty of places to see within a couple of hours of where we live. It’s the same for us all. Get out and have a look around. We live in a wonderful country.