Another city, another curry
The
train was only fifteen minutes late this time. At least the taxi driver was
willing to take us. Granted, he was looking somewhat confused when we asked for
the Holiday Inn. He didn’t look overly confident when I showed him the address
written down either. He then appeared to give himself a hernia trying to lug
the cases into the boot of his car. But he got to the hotel, by what seemed a
direct route and not as if he was auditioning for Taxi 6 – Vienna Calling
(sorry Falco). As he was slowing down to drop us off outside the hotel what do
we spy less than thirty years away? The Spice of India. Well that’s the
tiresome try and find somewhere to eat on the first night palaver over with
before it begins.
The
receptionist is nice and smiley and proudly announces we have a good room for
you, we’ve upgraded you to a junior suite. Always good, though I do wonder when
these little junior suites will grow up and become a senior suite. It isn’t the
size of our Prague suite, they’d only have three rooms a floor if it was, but
it’s definitely not your bog standard hotel room.
A
quick change and we’re back out and long the road to have Indian food for the
second night on the trot. We are the only people in the restaurant again, only
his time no one else arrives. To be fair it did look like they were thinking
about closing for the night, and a miserable looking man is sweeping and then
mopping up.
After
we have eaten the nice food and drank the Austrian beer we find out that they
haven’t been open long and are still establishing themselves. They usually get
the post work crowd in between six and eight and not the tourists just arrived
by slow train from Prague.
And
as if by magic it’s eleven o’clock again, time flies when you’re stuffing
yourself with curry. Another long day and long train journey, and a relatively
early night calls so that we can attack the new city with gusto in the morning.
Around every corner…. Oh wow!
Full
day one in Vienna and we just start walking, finding a café called Blueorange
for breakfast. Now this may just be me, but if your orange is blue there’s
something seriously wrong with it, much like the food ordering.
After
sustenance we head off in what we hope is the general direction of central
Vienna, and from the moment we walked into the market on Naschmarkt it was a
case of wow, look at that building every few yards.
Around
the area of the Hopburg Palace it’s just magnificence after magnificence. We
wandered around quite happily in and through buildings with courtyards galore.
They are quite happy for you to explore any part of any building from the
outside for free. However trying to look inside any building is bloody
expensive.
There
is a lot of building and restoration work going on throughout Vienna, and where
they have scaffolding over the fronts of buildings on main thoroughfares they
have images of the buildings behind the scaffolding on the netting, so it isn’t
obvious there is scaffolding there at first glance.
Apart
from on churches. The Votivkirsche had a massive Huawei advertising hoarding
over the front of the imaged netting, and the cathedral of St Stephan’s had
various Samsung S10 adverts on their netting. It is curious that the adverts
are only on the churches, as if they need to additional funding to have work
done.
A
lot of roads are cordoned off, and there were lots of people flocking along
them towards the palace. When we got there via a very winding route we found
out why. They were having a save the planet rally, the ones all the students around
the world were going on strike for.
They
left behind them a trail of rubbish, abandoned placards, beer cans, cigarette
ends, plastic bags, and the works. Save the planet my arse. More like an excuse
for a day off work or school and have a piss up. Bunch of hypocritical
self-obsessed twats.
We
carried on in the opposite direction to the demo, past more glorious buildings
and to a café for lunch. And then back to the wandering, after a few minutes of
trying to get bearings we headed in the right direction to get to the cathedral
of St Stephan’s. They do let into this gothic masterpiece for free, well part
of it anyway. To get to the central nave and south transept and behind the
altar to the chapels there was an entrance fee. To get to the crypt and the
treasury, there was a fee. To get to walk up the 285 steps of the south tower
there was a fee. To get the lift up to the top of the north tower there was a
fee. Which happened to be the cheapest fee and had a life – no steps, so we
were happy to pay for that and to be able to get the views out over Vienna it
afforded.
One
of the great things about the cathedral roof, and a few of the roofs of other
churches in the city is the tiling on their roofs. Multi-coloured and patterned
instead of bare slate or lead. It makes them stand out. The exit was through
the gift shop (yes, pen, fridge magnet and guide book) before we were back out
on the streets to carry on wandering.
First
up to see the grand Anker Uhr clock. An amazing time piece featuring twelve
famous characters from Vienna’s history carrying the hour across the face of
the clock a minute at a time. We had missed the change of character at the turn
of the hour, and didn’t really want to stand around for forty-odd minutes to
see the next one.
We
had to get over to Karlskirche to pick up our tickets for the evening concert.
Another spectacular baroque church. One we would get to see the inside of
later. We walked past the university buildings that were now over where Vivaldi
was buried to get to the metro station.
Tickets
for 48 hours public transport were picked up to cover us up to the point where
we needed to go to the airport. We head back to the hotel for a quick freshen
up and a smarten up. An early start is required this evening if we are going to
get food in before the concert.
Four Seasons (and then a few more)
Karlskirche
is a wonderful baroque masterpiece in the centre of Vienna. It looks amazing
during the day, and looks even better lit up at night (especially after the
rain has stopped.)
Vivaldi’s
Four Seasons is a well know musical masterpiece, written sometime between 1716
and its 1725 publication. Antonio Vivaldi himself was a musical maestro, who
spent the latter years of his life living in Vienna. His funeral was at St
Stephan’s cathedral and he was buried in the shadow of Karlskirche.
So
put them together and having a concert recital of The Four Seasons in
Karlskirche makes perfect sense.
A
vast open old space such as a church in winter needs to be prepared for, and
everyone wearing half a dozen layers wasn’t a surprise, being given blankets as
you went in would be an unexpected bonus. Apart from for the one idiot sat
there quite happily in his short sleeved shirt, jacket over the back of his
chair. Not for the first time on this trip other people were looking at me as
if I was mad and saying looking at me was making them feel cold.
I
was expecting four pieces of music. There are four concertos. I mean the name
Four Seasons gives a hint and a half. It would normally take 41 minutes.
However there were a lot more than four pieces of music, and they kept wheeling
out a classical singer to warble in a ridiculously high voice. It was great,
but it did go on quite a bit longer than expected, like a remastered CD with
added bonus tracks.
It
did give me a chance to have a really good look around the church. It was also
interesting as there was a massive ball installed above the centre of the nave.
The ball was silver coated and therefore reflected down on the whole audience.
With only the altar area lit up for the performers, there was very little light
shining down on the audience, which meant that smart phones in use were very
easy to see. At any point there would be half a dozen shining up. On the whole
they were on briefly, apart from two that appeared to be on for the entire hour
and fifteen minutes of the performance.
I
was glad that spring comes first; it got the most familiar part of the music
out of the way. The music that most EDFE Arkadin users since the noughties will
have hear thousands of times as the hold music for conference calls.
I
was surprised how much of the other seasons I knew. I’m always disappointed
that the four seasons being played about aren’t salt, pepper, vinegar and
mustard, but that’s just my silly sense of philistine humour kicking in.
I
think that winter is my favourite part. Which matches my personality perfectly.
I wouldn’t rush to a classical concert again, but if they are in such an
atmospheric classical building then it adds to the experience and makes it so
much more than just a classical music concert.
Schonbrunn Schloss
Our
last full day on our magical not so mysterious European tour, and we’re once
again a bit sluggish to get going. The rain isn’t helping; it’s putting a bit
of a dampener on the day (and the standard of the puns). Breakfast is a
leisurely affair. Not necessarily intentionally, but it did take longer to get
a menu than to get food after it was ordered.
Again
after eating we headed up to the Naschmarkt and headed through it in the
opposite direction than the day before heading for the local metro station for
the journey out to the Schloss Schonbrunn.
The
Habsburgs certainly didn’t fuck about when it came to building palaces. As we
came out of the station we walked to the main gate along what turned out to be
the orangery. Which was longer than the road of terraced house I used to live
on. The main gates lead to the courtyard, and the yellow façade of buildings
all the way around it.
We
had decided to pay to get in and see all the rooms that were open to us mere
hoi polloi. Thirty-eight rooms (it should have been forty, but two are under
renovation). They don’t allow photography inside. The more cynical part of me
would say that is so they can flog more of the guide books (worked on me).
However having a decent camera for the first time in my life, I’ve been
somewhat snap happy on this European tour, much I’m sure, to Helen’s
frustration, who’s had to stand waiting for me to finish snapping away like
some kind of lemon. If they had let me loose with a camera in here I’d probably
still be there now. Multiply that by every potential David Bailey with a camera
slung around their necks, and the place would be clogged within five minutes of
opening, and no one would ever get round.
There
really is that much to see and take in as we tour the fraction of the rooms
that are open. It is a wonderful mix of amazing décor, classic artworks, grand
furniture and mind boggling displays of wealth. Well over an hour later we are
exiting through the gift shop (yes, pen, fridge magnet and guide book), and out
into the grounds.
Which
are vast.
We
ignored the zoo, the worlds oldest apparently, and made our way up past various
statues based in Greek mythology and Roman history, up to the Gloriette. A
magnificent yellow arcade on top of the hill parallel to the rear of the main
palace, and offering great views over the western part of Vienna. They have a
wonderful café in the middle of it serving cake – that’s all you need to know –
cake. We didn’t get to see the rest of the menu.
Once
refreshed we walked back down from the Gloriette past Roman remains, not from
the Roman period, but recreated by the Habsburgs to enhance their prestige
during the eighteenth century. Large fountains are dotted around, but like all
water features we have encountered in Vienna they were empty.
It
was when we got back to the bottom of the hill, level with the palace that we
found the long building we had walked past coming from the station was the
orangery. That and the various greenhouses along the side of it cover a hell of
a lot of acres.
Palaced
out, we headed back to the hotel to chill for a bit, eat some of the chocolates
we bought in Berlin as gifts and get ready for the last night of our tour.
Which could get messy, the last night is always supposed to be the kick ass
one.
Stein Time
Our
evening meal was in a traditional Austrian bar / restaurant, but with the added
bonus one that had its own brewery attached. As it was the last night of the
tour, why not go for the litre steins, I’d stuck to half litre ones all week,
but one for the picture reel was needed.
It’s
a daunting thing when it arrives and you try and work out the best way to pick
it up and drink from it without either tipping it all over myself, or wrenching
my wrist. I ordered in a rush, and to be fair mainly based on the pictures in
the menu. The description said chicken strips, mozzarella sticks and onion
rings, and that’s what the picture showed. When it arrived the basket was a lot
bigger than expected, as the top layer of what was described on the menu hid a mountain
of potato wedges.
A
second look at the menu does mention the wedges. On a totally different
non-contiguous line in a different font. There were more potatoes in the basket
that I would even consider eating in a month. Part of my Irish genes are defective,
I’m not a potato fan at the best of times, so I’m not enamoured by the prospect
of trying to get through any of this mountain. I had a few and they were nice
and crispy, and boiling hot, but far too much for me.
We
had some shredded pancake concoction for desert; well it was more like shredded
Yorkshire pudding, with raisins in, and another stein. Our evening in the
restaurant ended sooner than expected straight after the Stark Brandy. The bill
appeared with the message to pay on the way out. We took the hint and sought
out somewhere else to carry on.
We
found what appeared to be someone’s front room done out as a bar. It had the
bartender and his mate in there. The bartender had to borrow his mate’s glasses
to see what Helen was pointing out on the drinks menu as he couldn’t understand
the word Amaretto. Then his mate was telling him that he should get his own
glasses out, and after a brief search he found them in the till.
As
with all European Union countries, the Austrians aren’t ones for the smoking
ban. They were openly smoking in the bar, and the café we’d been to in the
morning had had a smoking section, and the following day in the airport they
had smoking booths lined up like telephone boxes.
The
excitement of the bar was too much for us though, so we called it a night after
the single drink.
Homeward bound (boo yah sucks)
The
final day of the tour saw us having to pack, probably the worst point of any
trip. We had intended on getting a late check out, but whilst looking up
getting tickets to get from the city centre to the airport I saw the website
saying they had luggage storage lockers for ticket holders.
So
we checked out and headed to the Landstrasse Mitte station. Only to find they
only had twenty-six lockers, twenty of which would struggle to fit a case in
them anyway, and a queue to use them. A queue which might be there all day as
there was no indication when the users of the lockers would return. If ever.
The uninterested employee behind the CAT desk said there were other lockers in
the station, but didn’t say exactly where or comment on the probability they
were in use. Unable to find the other lockers, and with the information desk
being shut and locked, we pressed an information button to ask where the
lockers were.
The
officious prick who answered said there were no lockers free and that we should
try the Hauptbahnhof station. Which is neither use nor fucking ornament being a
mile and two metro lines away and not on a route to the airport. Seriously you
fucking halfwits, if you advertise left luggage for a city’s main station and
transport link to the airport then you either need to get organised and have
left luggage facilities to cope with the obvious need, or say there is only
very limited space upfront so people can use the appropriate late check outs
offered to them and not have to lug all the cases around the city because
you’re incompetent twats.
Resisting
the urge to rip someone’s head off and the guide book’s maps not reaching our
intended destination, coupled with Google maps’ refusal to work it was by luck
rather than judgement that we managed to find our way out to the
Hundertwasserhaus. The social housing designed and built by Friedensreich
Hunderwasser in the early eighties, very much with a feel of Gaudi’s Casa Mila
in Barcelona.
We
hauled our cases up to the first floor café and had a nice leisurely brunch in
the sun. After brunch, the first completely successfully accurate meal in
Austria, and a bunch of photos we got a tram over to the stop closest to the
Jesuitenkirche. Hidden away in a courtyard at the end of a side street is
another baroque masterpiece. The plain white stucco frontage with green capped
towers gives no indication to the opulence inside.
It
isn’t a large church, but every inch of it is amazing. There is a lot of gold,
magnificent marble columns of different designs and colours. Almost jade green
for some, and pink for a lot of others. Along either side of the nave are five
chapels. Each fitted with vast paintings and more gold and marble. Above each
chapel is a balcony where the great and good could watch the service without
having to mix with the hoi polloi below them.
Each
balcony had a cupola in the middle of it from the chapel below it. The huge
organ that sits above the entrance alcove was being played by an unseen
organist. Just sitting in one of the pews with the organ playing, taking in the
ambience was nearly as good as being in Karlskirche for a concert.
The
crypt was open and held a number of arched catacombs to one side, where three
rows of interred bodies lay, some laid to rest as recently as this year, and
others dating back to the 19th century. A simple altar sat the other
side, and a bolted gate held an intriguing question. The tunnel behind it
sloped gently into the darkness, with a hint of off shoots at what seemed to be
the end. Where they go and what they were (are?) used for is something for me
to try and find out at a later date.
From
the church we slowly headed back to the Mitte station, our cases still in tow.
The distance being nowhere near as far as the map suggested. The metro stop
closest to the Jesuitenkirche was only two hundred yards away from the one at
Mitte, so the walk above ground was a much better idea.
The
train whizzed to the airport, with a conductor who felt his calling was in the
performing arts, and actor or a comedian perhaps. We must have toured most of
the airport in the process of checking our bags in, going through duty free,
then passport control, more duty free and our last food on the continent – more
pretzels and beer – before finally going through physical security at the
entrance to the gate. Each gate having its own scanner and staff. It seems a
strange way of doing things, but definitely had less overall queuing time.
We
got the additional queuing time once we had boarded the plane. We were all
ready to go on time, but were held back for an appropriate landing slot at
Heathrow due to the shitty windy weather back at home. Just as it was when we
left. Some things never change.
Back
at Heathrow we came into terminal 3, which meant we had to try and work out the
public transport back to where our car was, seeing as we’d flown out of
terminal 5. We followed the signs for buses, all the way round to terminal 2
and the central bus station. But it was only a short hop from there back to the
car, so it wasn’t that bad.
Overall
it has been a great trip. We could probably do with another week off to recover
from it, but a single day will have to do before it’s back to the terrible
world of work.
Damn
lottery numbers didn’t come up again!